How to make a hand bound book

how to make a hand bound book

Handbound Book

Sep 26,  · Using a binder's needle (or similarly heavy needle, such as a tapestry needle) draw about 30" of binder's thread (a thick, durable, acid-free linen) through the kettlestitch at the foot of the last signature. Exit the spine at the next hole and then enter the . Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

Last Updated: February 18, References Tested. This article was co-authored by our trained team of editors whatever you say say nothing seamus heaney poem researchers who validated it for howw and comprehensiveness.

There are 33 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. The wikiHow Video Team also followed the article's instructions and verified that they work.

This article has been viewed w, times. Learn more Do you want to start a scrapbooknature journalor diary? You can, of course, buy a suitable book at the store, but if you really want to make it your own perhaps it's time to rediscover the not-quite-lost art of bookbinding.

Bookbinding styles range from simple to more complicated, and you can tape your book, bind it with a ribbon, or even bouund it in place. How to use garage band on mac bind a book, start by folding maje pages in half and stapling them makr at the folded crease.

Then, cut a piece of binding tape that's about 2 inches longer than your book and lay it sticky-side up on a flat surface. Next, line up the creased edge of your how to get pregnant after a vasectomy without reversal with the center of the tape and press your book down into the tape. Finally, wrap the other half of the tape around your book's spine and then cut off any excess tape at the top and bottom.

To learn how to bind a book using ribbon or thread, scroll down! Did this summary help you? Yes No. Log ma,e Social login does how to make a hand bound book work in incognito and private browsers. Please log in with your username or email to continue.

No account yet? Create an account. Edit this Article. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article methods. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Method hiw of All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Fold your pages in half. Make sure the fold is crisp by using a bone folder or running the top how to date an aquarius your nail over it and smoothing it down.

You can choose to fold pages individually or fold multiple pages together. If you have too many pages to fold crisply, try creating packets of signatures. A q is a group of 4 sheets folded down the center.

Stack signatures on top of one another. Staple at the folded crease. Go to source If you chose to make signatures, staple each signature separately. Go to source. Cut a piece of binding tape about 2 inches 5. Your tape can be colorful or simple. Make sure your tape is strong enough to hold the book together - avoid masking tape or clear tape.

Purchase a linen or cotton tape for the support you need. Place the tape on flat surface and press the book into it. By doing this instead of attempting what is pega bpm tool place the maake on the kake, you will have an easier time maintaining a straight, even tape line.

Make sure you press the book into the middle of the tape, since you will need to fold the rest had the tape to cover the other side of the book. Go biund source If your book is thick, leave a larger margin of tape so you have enough tape to cover the spine and still reach the other side.

Use your fingers buond guide the tape up so that it sticks to the spine of the book. Wrap the haand how to make a hand bound book the way around so that it covers both the bottom of the book, the spine, and the top of the hamd.

Reinforce a thick book with how to get rid of unresponsive scripts layers of tape. Boook your book has many pages or several signatures, you might want to try taping it more than once. Cut the excess tape. Because your tape was longer than the book itself, you should have some excess tape on the top and bottom of the book. Go to source Any leftover tape should be trimmed. Avoid folding leftover tape over, as this may make your book harder to open.

Method 2 of Ensure your pages have at least 1 inch 2. If you printed your pages using a conventional Han document, you should automatically have 1 inch 2.

If you wrote your pages by hand, make sure the writing has a margin. Use a hand-held hole-puncher for a clean look. Repeat the process on the bottom of the page. Ensure your holes line up properly. Use a ruler to draw a faint line connecting the two holes. Use a pencil so yand can w the line later on.

You can also choose to draw a thick line with pen or permanent marker if you want the line to remain on the cover. Make sure your holes are on the line. Choose a simple black tape for a classic look or go for a colorful design if you want something more personalized. Thread the ribbon in and out of each hole. Loop the ribbon back through the top and bottom holes and tie. Looping the ribbon a second time reinforces the binding.

Depending on how many pages you have, loop it a third time for how to make a hand bound book even stronger binding. Tie it off with a simple knot or a fancy bow, and cut off excess. Method 3 of Use a bone folder or the top of your nail to get a crisp fold.

You can fold individually or in groups, depending on how many pages you have. Use a ruler to measure how long the book is. Divide your measurement by 6. This bookbinding method requires tl holes at the crease. They should be equally spread apart, but the spacing between hqnd dots will depend on how large your paper is. Do this on the inside of the crease, and use a ruler to make sure your measurements are precise.

Then, each progressive dot will be 1. Your fifth dot should be 1. Pierce each station with an awl. An awl is used to pierce small holes in anything from paper to leather to wood.

Put your needle through the third station and pull about 2 inches 5. Put your needle through the fourth station. Your needle ,ake thread should now be on the inside bookk the crease. Let go of the rest of the thread and pull it through as needed. Thread your needle through the fifth station and back through the fourth station. Go through the second station. Your needle should now be on the outside by station two.

Put your needle through the first station and back through the second station. Your needle should go inside the first station and then go back outside the second station. Your thread should how to make a hand bound book be facing away from the crease. Finish by pulling your thread through the third station. Every station should be threaded, makw your book should now have thread both inside and outside of the crease. Tie the thread to itself and pull firmly.

Introduction: Make a Small Hand-bound Journal

Make a Small Hand-bound Journal Step 1: Materials and Tools Used. Step 2: Cutting and Folding the Pages. If you don't have a paper cutter that handle 12" sheets, you can use a cutting Step 3: Making the Cover Pocket. The cover pocket is for holding ephemera from those journal contributors who.

Pages last longer, lie flatter, and look better inside a handsome, durable hardcover. When you've completed this bookbinding project, you'll have a durable, attractive, and personalized copy of MAKE or other magazine or collection of loose pages that will last forever and lie flat.

This Instructable is a longer version of the article that appears in heavily edited in a good way form in Make magazine, Volume 5. While the editors did a great job of distilling ramblings that far exceeded the word limit I was given into a concise and useful article, the limits of space prohibited much of the additional description, background, nuance, and pictures larger versions of all the images in this Instructable are available in this Flickr set of my original piece.

So, I thought it was worth posting my first draft. What it lacks in polish I hope it makes up for in depth. Note: Like most thick magazines or paperback books, MAKE is perfect bound : individual leaves a leaf represents two pages, front and back, on one sheet of paper are collected and glued directly to the spine, where the front and back cover a single continuous wrapped sheet meet.

Shorter magazines are often saddle-stitch bound longer sheets, representing two leaves each, are folded and stapled at their spine , which actually cuts out a number of steps for hand binding. If you've decided to bind a saddle-stitched magazine or several into a single book , you've saved yourself a lot of trouble and can skip ahead to Step 4 "Stitch the Signatures". Before you can begin rebinding the book, you'll first need to remove the existing cover and glued spine.

I found that MAKE's cover pulled away cleanly by simply applying gentle but heavy pressure where the cover meets the spine. Not counting the two pages of advertising on a single leaf, which you'll probably feel comfortable excluding from the book sorry, ofoto , you now have loose pages 96 leaves. It's not a coincidence that this number divides evenly into six groups of 32 pages each not counting the ad, which was likely printed separately from the rest of the pages and added to the process just before the pages were glued.

Because of the way books and magazines are produced many pages are printed on large sheets, which are then folded and cut as a group , it's more cost efficient to keep the page count to a number that is divisible by a standard number of pages for a pass on the printer. Even if the magazine ends up being perfect bound, the publisher doesn't want to waste any pages for a pass the printer's already making any more than they want it to make an additional pass for an extra page.

When each group of pages leaves the press, it's then folded and cut to form a signature : a collection of pages that looks just like a saddle-stitched magazine and acts as a basic building block for a longer book. If you turn a hardcover book on its end and look into its spine, you'll likely see the pages grouped into signatures.

Grouping pages like this makes the book's spine much stronger and more durable, keeps pages from falling out as sometimes happens in a perfect-bound book when the glue wears out , and allows larger books to lie flat, which will particularly come in handy for a magazine like this one, which contains instructions you'll want to keep open for review as you work.

Since our perfect-bound magazine is now just a collection of loose pages, we'll now need to create the signatures. Collect your pages into six groups of 32 pages each, discarding the leaf of ads. Clothespins do a good job of keeping them sorted while you work. Note that I turned around the first page, so that the book now begins with the Table of Contents, rather than an ad—just a small personalization you might as well make if you're going to all the trouble to hand-bind the darn thing anyway.

Start with the first group, moving the others to the side. Opening the group as if it were a book, split it in half, such that pages 16 and 17 are facing as verso left and recto right pages, respectively.

Now, pair pages 16 and 17 together and set them aside. The facing pages beneath those should be and 14 and Keep them facing each other and set them aside. The next facing pages should be 12 and Keep them facing and set them aside, and continue through in this way through the rest of the group.

Perhaps this grouping seems strange, but it serves an important purpose and must be followed precisely. You'll now glue these facing pages as you've paired them, so they'll retain the original sequence of the magazine when they're folded together where pages 16 and 17 meet.

Cover the left side of the verso page with a piece of scrap paper you're going to use a lot of scrap paper for this project, so you might want to stock up now , up to the line you've drawn. Using an acid-free, nontoxic adhesive I'm a YES! Line the recto page up with your line to glue the two facing pages together.

Do the same for each pair of leaves in the group and return them to the order the pairs were in when you first split the group in half. Jog the group together to stack them evenly, and fold them along the center of the facing pages.

Holding the outside edges of the pages and making a crease at the top and bottom first helps keep the fold uniform and centered. Optionally, and for the smoothest fold, use a bone folder found by that name in the bookbinding section of most craft stores to smooth out toward the crease.

You've just completed your first signature. Do the same for each group of pages and collate the finished signatures in their original order. To make sure your signatures remain in the correct order when you stitch them together, you might want to use a pencil to lightly sign each signature this is where the term signature actually comes from with a number near the spine. This process creates the added durability offered by a hand-bound book. Using three tapes, running perpendicular with the folds of the signatures, provides for the strongest spine.

With your ruler and pencil, make eight marks along the fold of the first signature. The other six marks represent the points where you'll sew around the tapes two marks--an in point and an out point --for each tape. Stack the remaining signatures to make the same marks, at the same measurements. Use a medium-duty awl to pierce through the marks you've made in each signature. The holes should be just wide enough to allow a needle to work its way through, keeping the thread as snug as possible against the hole; don't create a huge opening.

Now, you're just about ready to sew. Though using a stitching post is not absolutely necessary as long as you keep a steady hand, make sure the tapes remain taut, and ensure that the signatures stay even while you sew , it does keep the work organized and easier to manipulate with the only two hands you have. If you have one available, set it up with the tapes stretched tight and spaced to match your holes. If you're stitching freehand, simply line up the tapes as you stitch; keeping in mind the way they look when attached to the stitching post should help visualize the goal you're looking for.

Using a binder's needle or similarly heavy needle, such as a tapestry needle draw about 30" of binder's thread a thick, durable, acid-free linen through the kettlestitch at the foot of the last signature. Exit the spine at the next hole and then enter the spine again, stitching around the first tape. Keep stitching in this way until you exit the spine at the head kettlestitch. Place the next signature over the one you've just stitched and enter the spine at its head kettlestich.

Stitch this signature around the tapes just as you did the previous signature. When you exit the foot kettlestitch, before entering the foot kettlestitch of another signature, loop the thread around the foot kettlestitch of the first signature, making a knot.

You'll do this at the foot and head kettlestiches for the remaining signatures, to prevent gaps between these otherwise unstitched contact points between adjoining signatures. When you run out of thread, knot a new 30" length to the existing thread.

The best place to add new thread is just before re-entering the spine around a tape. Keep stitching till all the signatures are connected, and tie a knot at the last kettlestich. Your signatures are now all sewn up and are just about ready to join to a cover and spine. Remove the work from the stitching post. Even after the tightest stitching job, you'll likely find the signatures are a little loose on these outside edges, and this does a good job of firming up the book block as a solid unit.

We now need to attach the mull a strip of cloth to the spine and tapes. Connecting cover boards to the mull, rather than directly to the signatures themselves, allows for a strong but flexible backbone hint: this is the key to creating our lay-flat binding , reinforcing the spine and giving you something to connect the front and back covers to.

The best cloth to use for mull is white linen fabric with a weave that's loose enough to allow sufficient paste penetration but tight enough to remain strong under pressure. Your knowledgeable craft store clerk should direct you to the perfect cloth specific to this task. Making sure to keep the work even on all sides and the spine straight, tighten your work in a press and tub.

If you don't have one of these lying around and if this is your first bookbinding project, chances are, you don't , no worries: a vice should work just as well. Just make sure to protect the work from any harsh edges of the vice. Cut a piece of mull tall enough to cover your kettlestitches and three inches wider than the width of the spine. Brush a generous amount of glue from the head kettlestitches to the foot kettlestitches and the full width of the spine, including the portions of the tapes that rest over the spine don't paste the free ends of the tapes.

Then, generously brush the spine area with glue. Attach the mull to the spine, covering the head and foot kettlestitches, and work the cloth into the spine with your fingers and a clean, dry rag until the glue is set brush on a little more glue, if necessary.

Leave in the press to dry overnight. Your basic book block is now finally! You'll need to cut three boards for your hardback case: the front cover, the back cover, and the spine.

Using your carpenter's square and utility knife, measure and cut the cover boards. Every board has a grain, which usually runs the length of the board. Make sure to cut every board with the grain; otherwise, if any stretching or warping occurs, the error will be much more obvious when two boards stretch in different directions.

Cut the spine board to the same height as the covers. Normally, the width of the spine board should be the width of the book block, plus the thickness of the front and back cover boards. You now have your rough boards. Before attaching them to your book block, use a medium-grit sand paper to smooth out the rough edges. Otherwise, over time, these edges might catch on shelf edges and wear through the cover paper.

With your book block of signatures lying face up, place a piece of scrap paper wax paper actually works better, if you have it between the mull and the tapes and another piece of scrap paper beneath the tapes. Brush the mull with glue. Remove the top piece of scrap paper.

Open the front cover and rest it against a board or another book roughly the same thickness as your book along the spine for support. Rub down the mull with a clean, dry cloth or paper until the glue works into the board and becomes almost dry.

Now, apply glue to the tapes and glue the tapes to the mull and cover board, making sure the tapes are perpendicular with the spine. Discard the second piece of scrap paper, and place a clean piece of scrap paper between the cover board and the first signature. Making sure the board is still straight, place the book under weights to dry for a half hour. To make a more uniform surface because any variance might show through the endsheets , draw a line on the inside of the cover 1" from the spine and use your utility knife to trim the mull and tapes only along the line don't cut into the board.

Place a fresh piece of scrap paper between the cover and the first signature, and turn the book over. Repeat the process for the back cover. Your project should start to look like something resembling a book at this point.

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