How to make a custom gundam model Brazahn / 06.04.202106.04.2021 Dec 22, · Phase 1: Cutting Out and Piecing Together Parts Tamiya Craft Tools no. 35 Side Cutters. These are one of the best side cutters for Gunpla, it cuts plastic like butter, X-Acto Hobby Knife. This is for further cleaning of nib marks. Be careful . May 19, · When I first started, I was painting D&D and Warhammer 40k models. Gundam have a much larger surface area, and consistent paint throughout is difficult to accomplish. Unless you are doing the “anime style gundam”, weathering, energy weapons, or the Gundam Pilots, hand paint ends up streaky and ugly. Have you ever thought about building a Gundam model or bought one only to find it sitting on your shelf? In this article we lay out each step and give helpful tips along the way to make your model building experience a lot of fun! Before you start building Gunpla, the first thing to do is prepare a suitable workspace like the one below. The next thing to do is to become more familiar with your kit by taking out the runners where the parts are and taking a look at the instruction booklet. On the first few pages of the instruction booklet you will find a visual list of the runners and their respective parts with corresponding letter designation. You can then arrange the runners in alphabetical order. A good tip is to how to make a custom gundam model them inside the box so that when you need a runner that contains a specific part, it will be easier to access it. Here are translations of some of the most common symbols that can be found in your Gunpla instruction booklet:. These are one of the best side cutters for Gunpla, it cuts plastic like butter, great for cleaning out nib marks because stress on the plastic piece is reduced die to the high quality design and sharpness of the side cutters. This is for further cleaning of nib marks. Be careful when using this tool because the blade is really sharp! These are used for sanding the parts after nib removal for an extra smooth finish. You can make your own with just some Popsicle sticks and sandpaper that have been cut to size. You can see in the image that the grit size has also been written on the stick for easy reference. Parts to be cut are indicated on the instruction booklet that is denoted by a letter of the runner and the number of the part. Assembling them is pretty straightforward most of the time and can be easily understood based from the what is lan card driver diagrams. In cutting the parts, do not cut right on the edge of the part. Cut away from the edge, leaving a few millimetres of plastic on the part, and then begin to remove the excess plastic little by little. This will avoid the creation of white stress marks that can be left when you cut as close to the piece as possible. First use a low how to make a custom gundam model number to even out the surface how to take out small dents in car grit sandpaper. Then increase the grit number to smoothen the surface. Do this for all of the parts to have a nice clean look on your built Gunpla. Goodbye pesky nib marks! Gundam markers come in different colors like grey and brown, though black is the standby color for most models. This is used to clean excess ink from the part especially if you want your piece to look spotless. As you can see in this example, the line is a bit thick and there is a slight excess of ink around the bottom of the piece. You can easily clean that by rubbing the eraser perpendicular to the panel lines. After blowing off the eraser dust, viola! Just be sure to have a rubber eraser prepared for cleaning. Take your skills to the next level with our detailed Gunpla Panel Lining Guide! They are not that hard to apply as long as you use the proper methods in applying decal stickers. And as a side note, they do provide some extra decal stickers so not everything in the sheet will be used if you follow the decal instructions in the instruction booklet. Application of decal stickers guide can be usually found near the end of the instructions booklet or at the back. You can use tweezers or a hobby knife in lifting up the sticker from the sheet, but in using a blade be careful not to tear the sticker. I prefer using a hobby knife because it is easier to control and easier to lay down the decal sticker on the model surface. You can also use a toothpick for laying the decal sticker in place and pushing out the air bubbles under clear decals to obtain a clean look. Learn how to master dry transfer and water slide decals with our in-depth Gunpla Decal Tutorial! Top coating is the last step in this basic Gunpla building process. There are two main finishes of Topcoat, which are gloss and matte. The choice between the two really comes down to personal preference. The advantages of matte Topcoat spray is that it can make scratches and sandpaper marks on the plastic surface disappear. The reason behind this is because the matte Topcoat spray makes the surface of the Gunpla plastic rough at the micro level thus reflecting less light. Gloss finishes are more suitable to metallic finished Gunplas to show off the metallic shine. Simply spread the arms and legs out as far as possible so that the spray will cover them. Spray the whole model in multiple light thin coats waiting a few minutes in between coats to dry and to achieve maximum effect. On average 3—5 coats should be adequate. This is a basic guide for building your first Gundam model and there is a wealth of resources online for more experienced builders. Do not tighten too much for parts to be screwed. Step should be repeated twice to build the same kind of what to eat and not to eat for kidney stones. Sometimes this can be more than twice depending on the part. Part will be rotated degrees opposite from its original position. This usually indicates that there is more than one part variant that can be what does below sea level mean or used in a part to be built. Opposite side can also be moved similarly. Tamiya Craft Tools no. X-Acto Hobby Knife This is for further cleaning of nib marks. Sandpaper Sticks These are used for sanding the parts after nib removal for an extra smooth finish. Making the Pieces Fit Parts to be cut are indicated on the instruction booklet that is denoted by a letter of the runner and the number of the part. You can also use your X-Acto knife in cleaning the nib marks further. Phase 2: Panel Lining Done Easily First, here are the tools you will need to make panel lining a breeze. Gundam marker or COPIC Multiliner Gundam markers come in different colors like grey and brown, though black is the standby color for most models. Rubber Eraser This is used to clean excess ink from the part especially if you want your piece to look spotless. Creating Satisfying Panel Lining Using the model piece below, we explain of how to easily create panel lining on each piece. More Tips on Topcoating Always shake the can before each spray. You can dip the can in warm water first before spraying so that the particles will be finer during spraying. Do not make the starting point of your spraying on the Gunpla model itself, start on an empty space beside the model and work your way through the Gunpla model spraying sideways and stopping past the Gunpla model, again do not stop on the model itself. Topcoating can fog clear parts, if you do not want this effect, you can just remove the clear parts beforehand. How to make a custom gundam model be sure to check out our series of Gunpla How-to Guides below! Tags: gundamgunplamodel makingtutorial. Enjoyed this article? Share it! Share this content Opens in a new window Opens in a new window Opens in a new window Opens in a new window Opens in a new window Opens in a new window Opens in a new window. Want to buy something from Japan? We can help! Learn More Opens in a new tab. Remember Me. Username or E-mail. Request Reset Password Link. The Gunpla Model Beginner’s Guide for Building Amazing Kits This is my custom, which is also a Wing Gundam. On the concept phase I just went crazy with some of my unused kits and voila. But I think I kinda overdo it, I used too many kits for this. Just check educationcupcake.us for the manuals and see if your kits are compatible for each other. Custom Gunpla is pretty standard today, but not everyone knows where to start. So let me guide you through my process. I needed to figure which part I was changing the colors, and marked them our in the instruction sheets. By using the instruction manual, I was able to sort the parts into their different color categories. This helped me organize which parts I had to paint which color without much hassle. Once I knew which parts to paint, I went ahead to do the whole Gundam, and then top coated it for the next step. I went ahead to cut out, file, and portion the Gunpla parts separately. After painting, it was just assembly that needed to be done. Something to take note of. As a beginner, I do not recommend hand painting your Gunpla. Gundam have a much larger surface area, and consistent paint throughout is difficult to accomplish. The difficulty of this build was making clean panel lines after airbrushing. Usually, Mr Hobby Accent Color can be used to slather everywhere, then enamel thinner and Q-tips to remove excess solution. This is a huge problem here because painted surface of this Custom Gunpla would be wiped off along with the accent color. So that ruled it out as an option. The two basic methods for panel lining are. I chose a panel marker for this job. Panel lining is a no brainer job. Find lines that are recessed, or broken up, and draw over them. These are in order of least to best looking. With a little care, attention, and something called Mr. Mark Setter, water slides are superior in almost every way. My client provided me with the water slides for this job. A necessary addition to water slides, or any decals in general, is both Mr. Mark Softer and Mr. Mark Setter. Softer melts the decals placed to conform them to the edges of the Gundam, and Setter adheres it to the plastic for maximum durability. All I had to do was dip them for an instant and wait a minute. The slides then, well, slide right off onto the plastic. Having a few Q-tips handy will help. I needed just 2 this entire Gundam. One Q-tip for wetness and moving the decal around, and one for soaking excess water and softer. All things said and done, the credit for the kit should be given to Bandai. Small details make a great difference, and you'll be able to do the same too! 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